Masonry Cost in Burlington

Grind out deteriorated mortar joints using an angle grinder with a diamond blade or a mortar rake (hand tool). Depth: 2.5x the joint width — a 3/8-inch joint needs 1 inch of depth. Shallow grinding (< 1/2 inch) leaves weak mortar behind; the repair fails in 5-10 years. Clean out dust and debris with a wire brush, compressed air, or a shop vac. Wet the joints with a spray bottle — dry brick sucks moisture out of fresh mortar and prevents bonding.

Mix mortar to match the existing joints — color, texture, and strength. Modern pre-mixed mortars are Type S or M (too hard for heritage brick). For old buildings, mix Type N or O using portland cement, lime, and sand in the correct ratios. Add pigments to match the original color (iron oxide for red, carbon black for dark gray). Test on a small area and let it cure 7 days — wet mortar looks darker than cured mortar.

Pack mortar into the joints in layers (1/4-inch lifts), pressing firmly to eliminate voids. Fill the joint flush with the brick face, then tool it to the desired profile once the mortar is thumb-print hard (not wet, not fully cured). Tooling compresses the surface, sheds water, and matches the original appearance. Common profiles: concave (rounded, best for water shedding), V-joint (angled), flush (flat), or raked (recessed — worst for water, used for aesthetics on sheltered walls).

Cut out damaged brick with a grinder or chisel, being careful not to damage adjacent bricks. Clean the cavity, wet it, and lay a bed of mortar. Insert a replacement brick (must match size, color, and grade — SW for exterior). Tap it into place with a trowel handle, scrape off excess mortar, and tool the joints. Matching brick is hard — old brick varies in color, texture, and size. Salvage yards or custom brick suppliers can help.

Install or repair flashing at critical points: top of walls (wall cap), base of walls (sill flashing), above windows/doors (lintel flashing). Flashing is metal (copper, aluminum, or galvanized steel) or rubberized membrane that diverts water out of the wall. Missing flashing is the #1 cause of masonry water damage. Wall caps (concrete, stone, or metal) shed water off the top of freestanding walls (garden walls, parapets).

Clean the wall with water and a stiff brush to remove mortar smears and efflorescence. For stubborn stains, use dilute muriatic acid (10:1 water:acid) — but ONLY on modern brick. Acid damages soft heritage brick. Rinse thoroughly. Apply a breathable masonry sealer (silane or siloxane) to reduce water absorption while allowing vapor to escape. Non-breathable sealers (acrylics) trap moisture and cause spalling.

Keep fresh mortar moist for 3-7 days to allow proper curing. Mist the wall with water 2-3x per day or cover with damp burlap. Protect from freezing for 48 hours (mortar loses 50%+ strength if it freezes before curing). In hot weather (> 25°C), shade the wall with tarps to slow evaporation.