Structural · Cost Guide
How Much Does Masonry Cost in Ontario?
Masonry costs in Ontario range from $15 – $30 per sq ft. Prices vary by scope, city, and site conditions.
$15+
Starting price
1-21 days
Timeline
10%
Recommended contingency
Masonry Cost Breakdown
| Scope | Low | High | Unit | Labour | Material |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tuckpointing (mortar joint repair) | $15 | $30 | per sq ft | 75% | 25% |
| Brick replacement (matching existing) | $25 | $50 | per brick | 60% | 40% |
| Chimney rebuild (above roofline) | $3,000 | $8,000 | per chimney | 55% | 45% |
| Stone veneer installation | $25 | $50 | per sq ft | 50% | 50% |
| Block wall construction | $20 | $35 | per sq ft | 55% | 45% |
| Parging (foundation exterior) | $8 | $15 | per sq ft | 65% | 35% |
Price Ranges at a Glance
Tuckpointing (mortar joint repair)
Brick replacement (matching existing)
Chimney rebuild (above roofline)
Stone veneer installation
Block wall construction
Parging (foundation exterior)
What's Included vs Not Included
Typically Included
- Mortar matching and colour selection
- Old mortar grinding and removal
- New mortar mixing and application
- Joint tooling and finishing
- Brick cleaning and debris removal
- Scaffolding for heights under 20 ft
Not Included (Extra Cost)
- Scaffolding rental for multi-story work ($500-$2,000)
- Custom brick sourcing for heritage matching
- Structural engineering for load-bearing walls
- Waterproofing behind brick veneer
- Flashing replacement at window/door heads
- Chimney liner installation ($1,500-$4,000)
Masonry Cost by City
Prices adjusted for local labour rates and material costs across 15 GTA cities.
| City | Low | High | vs Toronto | Details |
|---|---|---|---|---|
Toronto City of Toronto | $15 | $30 | 0% | View |
Mississauga Peel Region | $14 | $28 | -5% | View |
Brampton Peel Region | $14 | $27 | -8% | View |
Vaughan York Region | $15 | $29 | -3% | View |
Markham York Region | $14 | $29 | -3% | View |
Richmond Hill York Region | $14 | $29 | -4% | View |
Aurora York Region | $14 | $28 | -6% | View |
Oakville Halton Region | $15 | $31 | +2% | View |
Burlington Halton Region | $14 | $29 | -4% | View |
Milton Halton Region | $14 | $27 | -8% | View |
Ajax Durham Region | $13 | $27 | -9% | View |
Pickering Durham Region | $14 | $27 | -8% | View |
Oshawa Durham Region | $13 | $26 | -12% | View |
Whitby Durham Region | $13 | $27 | -10% | View |
Hamilton City of Hamilton | $13 | $27 | -10% | View |
Permit & Engineering Costs
Building Permit (structural masonry)
City of Toronto or local municipality
Required for new load-bearing masonry walls, structural retaining walls > 4 feet, or chimneys. Tuckpointing and brick repair typically do NOT require permits unless the building is heritage-designated.
$200-$800
Heritage Permit (for designated properties)
Heritage Preservation Services or local heritage committee
Required for any exterior work on heritage-designated buildings. Application includes photos, material samples, and contractor qualifications. Approval can take 4-8 weeks.
$500-$2,000
Engineered Drawings (for retaining walls > 4 ft)
Professional Engineer (P.Eng)
Retaining walls resist lateral earth pressure and must be designed for stability (overturning, sliding, bearing). Engineer specifies wall thickness, rebar, footings, and drainage.
$1,500-$4,000
Money-Saving Tips
Match mortar type to your brick age — Type N for heritage, Type S/M for modern. Wrong mortar destroys old brick.
Tuckpoint early when joints recede 1/4" — waiting until mortar is gone costs 3x more to fix.
Chimney repairs above the roofline are weather-dependent — schedule for dry months to avoid delays.
Get brick samples before starting — colour matching is harder than it looks, especially on 50+ year old homes.
Parging is cosmetic, not structural — don't pay for parging to "fix" a structural foundation issue.
Related Cost Guides
Masonry Cost FAQs
How long does tuckpointing last?
Properly done tuckpointing (2.5x depth, correct mortar type, tooled joints) lasts 30-50 years in Ontario. Failure modes: freeze-thaw cracking (if mortar is too hard or joints aren't tooled), water infiltration (if flashing is missing or weep holes are blocked), or differential movement (if the wall settles or the frame shifts). Shallow tuckpointing (< 1 inch depth) fails in 5-10 years. Type M mortar on heritage brick fails in 10-20 years due to brick spalling.
Can I tuckpoint just the bad sections, or do I need the whole wall?
You CAN patch sections, but the color won't match. Mortar color changes as it cures and weathers; new mortar is lighter/darker than 30-year-old mortar. If aesthetics matter (front facade), repoint the whole visible wall. If it's a side or back wall, patching works. Structurally, patching is fine as long as you grind to proper depth and match mortar type.
What causes brick to spall (face pops off)?
Freeze-thaw damage. Water enters the brick (through cracks, porous surface, or mortar joints), saturates the outer layer, and freezes. Ice expands 9%, creating pressure that pops the face off. Common causes: (1) wrong mortar type (Type M on soft brick), (2) missing or failed flashing (water enters from above), (3) MW or NW brick used on exterior walls (not rated for freeze-thaw), or (4) non-breathable paint trapping moisture. Fix: remove damaged brick, install SW-grade replacement, repoint with Type N mortar, and add flashing.
Should I seal my brick to prevent water damage?
Only with a BREATHABLE sealer (silane or siloxane). These penetrate the brick and reduce water absorption by 70-90% while allowing vapor to escape. Non-breathable sealers (acrylics) trap moisture and cause spalling. Apply sealer every 5-10 years, depending on exposure. Don't seal if mortar joints are deteriorated — fix the joints first, then seal. Sealing over bad joints just hides the problem until the wall fails.
What's the difference between brick veneer and solid brick?
Brick veneer is a single layer (wythe) of brick tied to a wood or steel frame with metal ties. It's decorative and weather-resistant but not structural — the frame carries the load. Solid brick (double-wythe or triple-wythe) is two or more layers of brick with no frame — the brick IS the structure. Most homes built after 1950 are veneer; pre-1950 are often solid brick. Solid brick has better thermal mass and sound insulation but is prone to moisture problems (no drainage cavity).
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