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Electrical

Wire gauges matter — 14 AWG carries 15A, 12 carries 20A, and undersized wire starts fires. ESA-licensed electricians get it right.

Written by Pavel Vysotckii

BCIN-certified building designer & Quantity Surveyor · Updated June 2026

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Project Overview

Timeline
1 day for outlet/switch work, 1-2 days for panel upgrades, 3-7 days for whole-home rewiring
Difficulty
Licensed electrician required for all work except replacing bulbs and plug-in devices
Starting at
$75-$150
Best Season
Year-round work. Winter rewiring avoids cutting exterior walls when it's cold.

Fixed Milestone Pricing

You approve each stage before it's paid

Overview

What is electrical?

Electrical systems deliver power safely from the utility to your devices. Three components must work together: the service panel (breaker box) distributes power to circuits, wiring carries current to outlets and fixtures, and protective devices (breakers, AFCI, GFCI) stop dangerous conditions.

Wire gauge determines safe current capacity. 14 AWG copper wire handles 15 amps (15A breaker), 12 AWG handles 20A, 10 AWG handles 30A, 6 AWG handles 50A. The smaller the gauge number, the thicker the wire and higher the capacity. Undersized wire heats up — insulation melts, connections oxidize, fires start.

AFCI (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter) breakers detect arcing at 5-7 amps and trip in milliseconds. Required on bedroom circuits since 2002, living spaces since 2015. GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) detects ground faults at 5 milliamps within 30 milliseconds — required near water since 1975. Both prevent deaths, but from different failure modes.

Aluminum wiring (1960s-1970s) oxidizes at connections, increasing resistance and generating heat. The aluminum "cold flows" under pressure, loosening connections over time. Houses with aluminum need special CO/ALR-rated devices and anti-oxidant paste — or complete rewiring.

Knob-and-tube wiring (pre-1950) has no ground wire and uses cloth insulation that degrades. You can't cover it with insulation (overheating risk), and modern electronics expect a ground path. Insurable, but most insurers charge higher premiums or refuse coverage.

When you need electrical

  • Panel upgrade — adding central air, EV charger, or major appliances that exceed your current service capacity (100A→200A is common)
  • Rewiring — flickering lights, burning smell, aluminum wiring, knob-and-tube, or Federal Pacific/Zinsco panels that fail to trip
  • New circuits — kitchen reno, basement finish, heat pump, workshop that needs dedicated 20A or 240V circuits
  • AFCI/GFCI upgrades — required by OBC for bedroom and wet-location circuits, often flagged during home inspections
  • Outlet/switch replacement — old two-prong outlets, broken switches, adding USB outlets or smart switches
  • Troubleshooting — breakers tripping repeatedly, outlets not working, partial power loss, or burning smell from panel
  • Exterior work — adding outdoor outlets, landscape lighting, pool/hot tub circuits that need GFCI protection
Step by Step

The Process

What happens from start to finish

1

Site Assessment & Load Calculation

1-2 hours

Electrician inspects existing panel, service capacity, and wiring. Calculates total load (heating, cooling, appliances, lighting) to determine if you need a service upgrade. Identifies hazards: Federal Pacific panels (breakers don't trip), aluminum wiring, overloaded circuits, missing AFCI/GFCI protection.

2

ESA Permit Application

1-2 days processing

Electrician pulls ESA permit online (required for all work except device replacement). Permit costs $88-$367 depending on scope. ESA assigns inspection — inspector verifies code compliance after work is complete. Homeowner DIY work requires homeowner permit and two inspections (rough-in + final).

3

Material Procurement & Scheduling

1-3 days

Electrician orders panel, breakers, wire, boxes, devices. Schedules utility disconnect if replacing service mast or meter base. Coordinates with drywall/insulation trades if walls need opening. Books ESA inspection date after work completion.

4

Power Shut-Off & Execution

Varies by scope

Utility disconnects power at transformer (service upgrades) or electrician shuts main breaker (circuit work). Electrician installs new panel, pulls wire, makes connections, tests circuits. Panel upgrades take 4-8 hours. Whole-home rewiring takes 3-7 days with drywall repair.

5

ESA Inspection & Power Restoration

Inspection: 30-60 min

ESA inspector verifies code compliance: proper wire sizing, correct breaker types, grounding/bonding, AFCI/GFCI placement, box fill calculations. Pass = green sticker, power restored. Fail = deficiencies listed, re-inspection required ($88). Utility reconnects service.

Pricing Transparency

Investment Guide

Electrical pricing depends on labor (journeyman rate $80-$120/hr), materials (wire, panel, breakers), and permit/inspection fees. Service upgrades cost more due to utility coordination and longer timelines.

Outlet or switch replacement (per device)

$75-$150

Depends on: Simple swap vs GFCI/AFCI device, accessible vs buried in finished wall, aluminum wire needs special devices

New circuit (dedicated 15A or 20A)

$300-$800

Depends on: Wire run length, accessible basement vs insulated walls, breaker type (standard vs AFCI/GFCI combo)

Panel upgrade (100A to 200A service)

$2,500-$5,500

Depends on: Includes new panel, mast, meter base, utility disconnect/reconnect, ESA permit/inspection. Add $500-$1,200 if trenching needed.

Sub-panel installation (detached garage, basement)

$1,200-$3,000

Depends on: Wire run distance, 60A vs 100A capacity, underground vs overhead feed, grounding rod installation

Whole-home rewiring (1,500 sq ft)

$8,000-$18,000

Depends on: Includes new panel, all circuits, drywall repair/paint. Aluminum or knob-and-tube removal adds complexity. Unfinished basement = lower cost.

EV charger circuit (240V 40A or 50A)

$800-$2,500

Depends on: Distance from panel, need for panel upgrade, outdoor-rated wire/conduit, GFCI breaker requirement

Permits
Permit Required
ESA Electrical Permit$88-$367

What Affects the Price

Wire type — copper costs more than aluminum, but aluminum needs special terminations and anti-oxidant pasteAccess — open basement joists cost less than fishing wire through insulated walls or second-floor runsPanel capacity — if your existing service is maxed out, you'll need a service upgrade before adding circuitsBreaker type — AFCI breakers cost $60-$90 vs $8 for standard breakers, GFCI combo breakers cost $80-$120Code upgrades — replacing Federal Pacific or Zinsco panels requires full panel swap, not just breaker replacementHazard removal — aluminum rewiring or knob-and-tube removal doubles labor due to wall access and patching

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Permits & Building Code

Ontario Building Code requirements

Permit / ApprovalAuthorityTypical Cost
ESA Electrical PermitElectrical Safety Authority$88-$367

Licensed electrician pulls permit under their license (ECRA/ESA number). Homeowners can pull homeowner permit but must pass two inspections and take full liability.

ESA inspector checks wire sizing, breaker types, AFCI/GFCI placement, grounding/bonding, box fill, and code compliance. Green sticker = pass.

Failed inspections require re-inspection ($88). Common fails: wrong wire gauge, missing AFCI, improper bonding, overfilled boxes.

Insurance may deny claims for unpermitted electrical work. Always get permits — it's the law and protects your coverage.

How You Pay

Fixed Milestone Pricing, Approved by You

Every electrical project runs on fixed milestone pricing. The plan is signed before work starts, and you approve each stage before it's paid.

  • Plan Signed Before Work Starts

    Every milestone and its price is written into the contract up front — no surprise extras.

  • Review in the Live App

    Daily photos, inspection reports, and spend vs budget land in your client app at every phase.

  • You Approve Each Milestone

    A stage is only paid after you review the work and sign off in the app.

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Project Center

Electrical

In Progress
Deposit15%
ESA Permit Application25%
Material Procurement & Scheduling30%
Final + Holdback30%

Milestone Progress

Milestone 3 of 4

Approved by you

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Electrical Hazards — Why Bad Work Kills

  • Federal Pacific (FPE) and Zinsco panels fail to trip under overload — documented by CPSC testing. Breakers stick, allowing wire to overheat and start fires. Replace entire panel, not just breakers.
  • Aluminum wiring oxidizes at connections, increasing resistance and generating heat. "Cold flow" loosens connections over time. Use CO/ALR-rated devices and anti-oxidant paste, or rewire with copper.
  • Undersized wire causes fires — 14 AWG on a 20A breaker will overheat. Always match wire gauge to breaker rating: 14 AWG=15A, 12 AWG=20A, 10 AWG=30A.
  • Missing AFCI protection allows arcing faults (loose connections, damaged wire) to start fires. Required on bedroom and living area circuits — install combo AFCI/GFCI breakers.
  • DIY electrical work without permits is illegal and voids insurance. ESA inspections catch dangerous mistakes — don't skip permits to save $200 and risk your house.
  • Knob-and-tube wiring can't be covered with insulation (overheating risk) and has no ground. Modern electronics expect a ground path — rewire or accept higher insurance premiums.
  • Overloaded circuits trip breakers for a reason — adding more outlets to a maxed circuit doesn't solve the problem, it hides it until wire overheats.

Trusted by Ontario Homeowners

One licensed crew and a live client app on every electrical project

Licensed

OBC Licensed, Insured & WSIB Covered

Live App

Daily Photos & Inspection Reports

Fixed Price

Milestones You Approve

Related Services

Handyman

Handymen can replace switches and outlets, but new circuits or panel work needs a licensed electrician.

Learn more

Plumbing

Renovations often require both electrical and plumbing work. Coordinate both trades to avoid scheduling delays.

Learn more
FAQ

Common Questions

Can I DIY electrical work in Ontario?
Yes, but you must pull a homeowner ESA permit, pass rough-in and final inspections, and take full liability. Most insurance companies will deny claims for unpermitted work. Licensed electricians carry $2M liability insurance and warranty their work — for most homeowners, hiring a pro is cheaper than the risk.
Why do I need to replace my Federal Pacific panel if it still works?
Federal Pacific (FPE) Stab-Lok breakers fail to trip under overload in 25-60% of cases (CPSC testing). The breakers physically stick in the "on" position, allowing wire to overheat and start fires. Over 2,800 fires attributed to FPE panels. Replace the entire panel — FPE breakers are no longer manufactured and used replacements have the same defect.
What's the difference between AFCI and GFCI?
AFCI (Arc Fault) detects arcing at 5-7 amps caused by loose connections or damaged wire — trips in milliseconds to prevent fires. Required on bedroom and living area circuits. GFCI (Ground Fault) detects current leaking to ground at 5 milliamps within 30 milliseconds — prevents electrocution. Required near water (bathrooms, kitchens, outdoors). Combo AFCI/GFCI breakers do both.
How do I know if I need a service upgrade?
Add up major loads: central air (20-30A), electric heat (30-60A), EV charger (40-50A), range (40-50A), dryer (30A). If total exceeds 80% of your panel rating (80A on a 100A service), upgrade to 200A. Other signs: main breaker trips frequently, lights dim when appliances start, you can't add circuits without removing existing ones.
Why does my house have aluminum wiring and is it dangerous?
Aluminum wire was used 1960s-1970s when copper prices spiked. Aluminum oxidizes at connections, increasing resistance and generating heat. It also "cold flows" under pressure, loosening connections over time. Both cause fires. Solutions: (1) rewire with copper ($8K-$18K), (2) use CO/ALR-rated devices and anti-oxidant paste ($1,500-$3,000), or (3) accept higher insurance premiums. Don't ignore it — aluminum fires kill.
Can I upgrade to 200A service without replacing my panel?
No. Service upgrades require new meter base, new service mast, new main breaker, and often new panel. The utility disconnects power, electrician replaces equipment, ESA inspects, utility reconnects. Budget $2,500-$5,500 including permit, inspection, and utility fees. If your panel is Federal Pacific, Zinsco, or 40+ years old, replace it during the upgrade.
Why do AFCI breakers cost $60-$90 when standard breakers cost $8?
AFCI breakers contain microprocessors that analyze current waveforms and detect arcing signatures (5-7A spikes) in milliseconds. Standard thermal-magnetic breakers just measure total current and trip at 15-20A. The electronics cost money, but AFCI prevents fires from damaged wire and loose connections — cheap insurance against burning your house down.
What happens if I skip the ESA permit?
ESA inspectors can issue stop-work orders and fines up to $50,000 (plus $10,000/day). Your insurance will deny fire claims if they discover unpermitted electrical work. When you sell, the buyer's home inspector will flag missing permits — you'll pay to bring everything to code or lose the sale. Permits cost $88-$367 — skipping them to save $200 is insane.
Can I install an EV charger myself?
Only if you pull a homeowner ESA permit and pass inspection. Most EV chargers need a dedicated 240V 40A or 50A circuit with 6 AWG or 8 AWG wire. The circuit must have GFCI protection (combo breaker or GFCI outlet). If your panel is full or undersized, you'll need a service upgrade first. Licensed electricians charge $800-$2,500 installed — worth it for the warranty and insurance coverage.
My breaker keeps tripping — can I just replace it with a bigger one?
No. Breaker size must match wire gauge: 15A for 14 AWG, 20A for 12 AWG, 30A for 10 AWG. Installing a 20A breaker on 14 AWG wire allows the wire to overheat before the breaker trips — that's how fires start. If the circuit is overloaded, install a new dedicated circuit with proper wire gauge, don't upsize the breaker.
Should I worry about electromagnetic fields (EMF) from household wiring?
Magnetic fields from wiring are caused by "net current" — when neutral wires from different circuits share a return path (ganged neutrals) or when supply and return conductors are separated. Properly wired circuits produce negligible fields because supply and return currents cancel each other. Wiring errors create net current that generates fields measurable with a gaussmeter — ganged neutrals have been measured at 16+ milligauss, while acceptable levels are below 0.5 milligauss. Fix: ensure each circuit has its own dedicated neutral back to the panel and that supply/return conductors run together. A qualified electrician with a gaussmeter can test under a 3A load on each circuit and identify offending wiring. If you're rewiring or upgrading a panel, specify split neutral bus configuration to prevent ganged neutrals from the start.
Do dimmer switches create electromagnetic interference?
Standard dimmer switches chop the AC sine wave to reduce power — this creates harmonic distortion that generates magnetic fields and radio-frequency interference measurable within 2-3 feet of the dimmer. Low-voltage lighting with electronic transformers adds another field source. Practical advice: locate dimmers away from beds, desks, and seating areas where you spend extended time. For bedrooms, use a simple on/off switch or a remote-controlled dimmer installed at the panel rather than in the wall beside your bed. The field intensity drops off rapidly with distance — 3 feet away, it's negligible. Not a reason to avoid dimmers, just a reason to think about placement.
When should electrical rough-in happen during construction or a major renovation?
Electrical rough-in happens AFTER plumbing and HVAC rough-in — not before. Plumbing pipes and HVAC ducts are larger, less flexible, and harder to reroute than electrical wire. If the electrician runs wire first, the plumber and HVAC installer end up working around wires, and you get spaghetti inside the walls. The correct sequence: framing → plumbing rough-in → HVAC rough-in → electrical rough-in → insulation → drywall. During electrical rough-in, also run structured wiring (Ethernet, coax, speaker wire, security cables) to every room — once drywall goes up, pulling new wire is 10x harder and more expensive. For new homes or heavy renovations, specify 200 amp service from the start. A 100 amp panel fills up fast with modern loads: EV charger (50A), heat pump (40A), electric range (50A), dryer (30A), hot tub (50A). Upgrading later costs $3,000-$5,000 and requires utility coordination. Doing it during construction adds $500-$1,000.

Where we do this work

Based in Toronto, working across the GTA

TorontoMississaugaBramptonVaughanMarkhamRichmond HillAuroraOakvilleBurlingtonMiltonAjaxPickeringOshawaWhitbyHamilton

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