Roofing

Inspect from ground level and attic. Look for: missing or damaged shingles, curling or cupping (edges lift due to moisture absorption), granule loss (bare spots on shingles or granules in gutters), sagging roof deck (indicates rotted sheathing or structural issues), daylight visible through deck, water stains or mold in attic, inadequate ventilation (soffit vents blocked, no ridge vent). Measure roof area (square footage ÷ 100 = number of "squares" — roofing is priced per square). Identify pitch (slope) — steep roofs (8:12 or steeper) require extra safety equipment and labour. Count penetrations (chimneys, vents, skylights) — each needs flashing. Get 2-3 quotes; compare scope (tear-off vs overlay, underlayment type, shingle quality, flashing details, ventilation upgrades).

Choose shingles: architectural (25-50 year warranty, $100-$150 per square) vs 3-tab (15-20 year, $70-$100 per square). Choose color (darker colors absorb heat, lighter colors reflect — consider energy efficiency and curb appeal). Order underlayment: ice/water shield for eaves and valleys (required by OBC), synthetic or felt for field. Order flashing materials: aluminum or galvanized steel step flashing, valley flashing, drip edge, pipe boots, ridge vent. Order fasteners: 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" roofing nails (galvanized or stainless), cap nails for ridge. Delivery timing: materials arrive 1-3 days before start date.

Set up roof jacks or scaffolding for steep roofs (6:12 pitch or steeper). Install fall protection (harness, rope, anchor points) per Ministry of Labour regulations. Lay tarps or plywood on ground to protect landscaping from debris. Set up debris chute or dumpster (10-20 yard bin for tear-off debris). Cover open valleys, vents, and skylights with tarps during tear-off to prevent water infiltration if it rains.

Strip old shingles, underlayment, and flashing down to roof deck. Use flat shovels or tear-off forks (wide blade with teeth). Work from ridge down to eaves — gravity helps. Toss debris into dumpster or onto tarps (hand-carry to bin). Inspect deck for damage: soft spots (rot), gaps, broken panels. Replace damaged sheathing (OSB or plywood) — cut out bad sections, nail in new panels. If more than 20% of deck is damaged, consider full re-sheath (adds $2-$5 per sq ft). Sweep deck clean (no nails or debris — punctures underlayment).

Install drip edge (metal flashing along eaves and rakes — directs water into gutters, protects fascia). Install ice/water shield at eaves (minimum 3 feet up from edge, or to a point 2 feet inside the exterior wall — whichever is greater). Install ice/water shield in valleys (minimum 36" wide, centered on valley). Roll out synthetic underlayment or felt over remaining deck, overlapping rows by 6" (felt) or per manufacturer spec (synthetic). Nail or staple underlayment to deck (cap nails or staples every 12"). Some synthetics are self-adhering (peel-and-stick). Lap underlayment over drip edge at eaves, under drip edge at rakes (water flows over underlayment, under drip edge, into gutter).

Install valley flashing: 24-gauge galvanized or aluminum, centered in valley, extending from eaves to ridge. Open valley (metal exposed) or woven valley (shingles interlaced) — open valley is more durable and easier to inspect. Install chimney flashing: base flashing (L-shaped metal pieces at base of chimney, overlap shingles), step flashing (each shingle course gets a flashing piece), counter-flashing (cut into chimney mortar joints, bent down over step flashing — prevents water from running behind). Install cricket/saddle (small peaked structure behind chimney to divert water around it — required for chimneys wider than 30"). Install step flashing at walls (where roof meets vertical siding). Install kick-out flashing at bottom of step flashing (diverts water into gutter — critical detail, often skipped).

Install starter strip at eaves (upside-down shingles or dedicated starter shingles — provides adhesive seal for first course). Install first course of shingles along eaves, overhanging drip edge by 1/2"-3/4". Nail each shingle with 6 nails in the nailing strip (upper third, above cutouts). Work up the roof in courses, offsetting shingles by 6" (half-tab) to stagger seams and create the pattern. Snap chalk lines every 4-5 courses to keep rows straight. At valleys: cut shingles to follow valley flashing, leaving 2-3" of exposed metal (open valley). At ridges and hips: install ridge cap shingles (thicker, pre-bent shingles) with 6" exposure, nailed on both sides.

Cut a 1-2" slot along the ridge (if installing ridge vent). Install ridge vent (mesh or baffle design) over slot, nail to deck, cover with ridge cap shingles. Verify soffit vents are open and unblocked (insulation often blocks airflow — install baffles between rafters to maintain air channel). Add roof vents or gable vents if ridge vent is not feasible. Target 1:300 ventilation ratio (1 sq ft vent per 300 sq ft attic floor), split 50/50 intake (soffit) and exhaust (ridge).

Magnetic sweep of property to pick up nails (roofing nails are everywhere after tear-off — lawn mower hazard, tire puncture risk). Remove tarps, debris, and equipment. Inspect roof from ground: straight courses, no lifted shingles, flashing visible and properly installed, ridge vent installed, no exposed nails. Provide homeowner with warranty documents (manufacturer's shingle warranty, contractor's workmanship warranty). No building permit required for re-roofing (unless changing structure or adding skylights), so no inspection — but quality contractors self-inspect.